In this week’s episode, we’re joined by critical mastermind Caroline Cai (aka Clairolime) to unpack what we’re calling Catalan Chicslop, the downtempo, sophisticated, quietly freaky aesthetic championed by brands like Paloma Wool and Gimaguas. We discuss how this look evolved from avant-basic dopamine dressing, its influences from ‘90s minimalism to early 20th century experimental couture, Barcelona’s history as a modernist aura farm, post-Phoebe Philo feminist-lite brand mythos, and strategies to transcend the tyranny of chicness. We also analyze the aesthetic’s appeal to women across successive life stages, from 13-year-old Penelope Dissick to microinfluencer gallerinas to mysterious pregnant brunettes. Links:
Relevant brands: Paloma Wool, Gimaguas, Susmie’s Collection, Belle Anna, Deiji Studios, Buci, Geel, DémodéMODÉ
“How Spain’s Indie Fashion Scene Nailed Global Growth” in Business of Fashion
“These Brands are Putting Spanish Style on the Map” by Zoe Suen in W
“Paloma Wool: From Cool to Basic and Back Again” by Yola Mzizi in The New York Times
Paintings by Ramon Casas (Ex. 1, Ex. 2, Ex. 3, Ex. 4)
Paloma Wool’s “San Sebastián 2025” campaign featuring Carlotta Baan
“Studio Visit: Paloma Wool” in Sleek magazine (2023)
“Where Are All the Women Designers?” by Emma Childs in Marie Claire
Chicslop runoff examples from Miaou, Frankie’s Bikinis, Guizio, Jaded London, Revolve house brands Lioness and Lovers and Friends, With Jean, UNIFHAIM - Relationships (Official Music Video)
Crumbs from Penelope Dissick’s deleted TikTok photo dump
Emma Chamberlain’s “i got rid of (almost) everything” closet video
“T-boy swag: Claiming space where trans people feel we don’t inherently belong” by Reanna Cruz in NPR
Note from Alexi: I’m sorry I mispronounced Phoebe Philo omg put your chic pewter pitchforks down!!
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